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Good info.. ok so i’m Going to try it. I’ve successfully both soldered and spot welded to lithium cells in the past rebuilding cordless tool packs and such. I feel I could remove the Alta fused wire, burnish the tiny plated contact point on the PCB and solder it back with a piece of single...

Ok so can anyone actually prove that the soldered aluminum connections are actually fuseable links by design? I’ve got some similar gauge aluminum mig wire that i’m Going to test for it’s current threshold. Just looking to see if anyone has more specifics on this or have seen a link between the...

Whoa ok.. I don’t have any of that stuff.. i’ll Keep my eyes open for somebody in my region with the capacity.

Does anybody have this tool in FLorida?

Yes, mine is capable (xantrex lab grade and current calibration 0-300v power supply) but I just did not know I had to be that close! I’ll have to go back at it!

Wow nice software! That’ll save some time.. I have been doing it the hard way and after reading some of those threads I would have brought the parallel groups much closer..

I’m going back into @Cody129 battery and going to meter and chart out all 4 modules to determine how many are driving his imbalance that is throwing the fault. When I “hand balanced the pack I had every cell within .1v and every parallel group within .2-.3v. I thought that would be sufficient...

Yes, i’m Thinking that I may have a creative way to replace a bonded cell. I also saw recently posted a few internal batt parts (with no cells) that I may try to get my hands on when I get some money free. I’m not going to be able to duplicate any “fuseable” links so likely any individual cells...

I’m working with Cody, a local guy who also has an Alta and may end up attempting some cell replacements on his batt soon (his bike is in my garage and has a pack fault which won’t allow above 50% charge). If I make any headway i’ll Post about it. I’m not a software guy but have spotwelded...

Have been in these packs a few times and I can say it will take some engineering. The electronics on the chassis side are fully dependent on the electronics inside the battery. The controller is looking at all kinds of data from the pack: *Total HV *12vdc output (handled by the step down...

Temp sensor bypassing or reprogramming the BCU to be less conservative is the answer in my opinion for those of you going limp mode during racing from pack temp. I’ll look again at the pack (have one coming back apart next week likely) to see how the temp thermistors are set up (if nobody has...

Yup, 2018 EX. I have a bunch of internal batt pics.

Extexh 382213 is the 30VDC Xantrex XHR 300-2 is the 300VDC

If needed the contractors are easily replaced (someone with electrical background) or you could modify you battery to install external contractors. I had slaved in a circuit for this and the 12vdc when troubleshooting another problem internal to the battery pack.

Okgot it figured out.. So had to spend some money on two regulated power supplies, one 30vdc and one 300vdc. The 30vdc I used to clip to the individual cell pack test points to balance best I could then clipped the 300vdc to all 4 packs in series and brought them all up to 308vdc (high as this...

All good. I’ll let you know if I go that route but i’m going to try like hell to rebuild this battery. If i’m Successful I could make a business out of it lol..

Don’t say that! I gotta get this baby going. I’ve just ordered a 300v power supply to charge the internal packs and see if that will do it. I’m gonna get her back alive. A wiring diagram for the bike would have sped things way up if I only had one..

I just read in the white pages that most BMS controllers will not allow a load below 2vdc per cell. I’m well below that if my 50cell pack is at 45v.... also read that most lithium ion cells will not recover below the 1.5v range. I may be dealing with a 70lb boat anchor..