1. The twisted pair green and white from the display pigtail runs to the ACM in -01. That twisted pair runs to the DCCP in -04, so the DCCP cube connector is different between harnesses. 8 pins vs 6 pins.
2. In harness -01, the red wire from the DCCP pigtail goes to pin 2E in the ACM connector while the red wire from the throttle pigtail goes to pin 4E. In harness -04 these two red wires are vice versa: DCCP red to pin 4E, throttle red to 2E.
3. Key pigtail on -01 only has 2 wires and ACM pin 1A is unoccupied. In Marks pinout, key has a third wire going to 1A.
I know that this a pretty dry story to read through but I'm definitely learning from all the help I'm getting here.
On a more interesting note i have to wonder why somebody in las vegas has what looks to be an R pack bike harness in a state of undress Alta Motorcycle Wire Harness | eBay Somebody snap it up before it expires or gets thrown away!
I also got an Alta motor from a forum member and trying to drive it with a Bamocar D3. I think there are 2 magnets in the axle which are secured with the big nut at the end. The chip responds to the +/- of the magnets and know position from the magnetic field.
I don't know how to remove the magnets and nut, but I suppose I should remove the nut (with a air impact wrench or something)? Anyone has more info on this?
I was hoping BRP would offer their electric go cart or electric street bike with electronics and drivetrain derived from the Alta and Alta owners would be able to buy compatible parts from them, but so far those vehicles are just prototypes.
Current options, none of them good
1. wait for individual modules to pop up for sale
2. work outside of the ALta biosphere somehow. It could never perform like oem but I could live with a top speed 50% of oem as long as low speed characteristics are good.
A. use oem motor with another controller. First question, can the motor be utilized at lower voltages? Would it need to be rewound and/or have bigger phase wires attached?
- low voltage would make it easier to make a working battery and there are a handful of controllers as possibilities
-if high voltage mandatory, there are a few more expensive controllers listed by wwmotors upthread that may be options:
I'm pretty sure I'll be able to make a working inverter, I have the OEM board about 25% reverse engineered (pwm circuit)
Another huge hurdle looming is unlocking the battery. I hope that it will be possible to utilize CAN messages to convince the battery its ok to feed voltage to the inverter and to drink juice from the charger. Anybody interested in helping to reverse engineer the CAN?
I'm slowly walking down the path but as I go I am gaining knowledge and momentum. I'm also realizing how long the list of things to do will be. The horizon keeps moving away from me but I have nothing to lose and am really enjoying the process