Mark911 can fix anything, if asked nicely

[Mark911]

Of course.

 

[Don Thuren]

Of course.

Thanks Mark!

I think today I'm going to pull the battery, and all the electrical components I can get to, and open things up and inspect if I feel comfortable.

 

[Mark911]

The most difficult part is just getting access to the various connectors and modules. Pulling the pack makes things so much easier and the harness is long enough so you can re-connect and key-on without completely re-installing the pack.

 

[Don Thuren]

The most difficult part is just getting access to the various connectors and modules. Pulling the pack makes things so much easier and the harness is long enough so you can re-connect and key-on without completely re-installing the pack.

That's exactly what I did!

I pulled apart pretty much anything reasonable to check for evidence of moisture, or anything weird, but nothing... Even pulled the top off the battery to check for the same, but was totally clean and dry.... Pulled the battery bottom screen/vent plate, and totally dry..

Pulled the big metal plate covering the speed-control(I think) area in front of the motor too, and adjusted some wires a little that were rubbing...

Hooked up like you note, and no change... 240-260 KOHMS negative isolation..

Hmmmmm.......

 

[Mark911]

When the packs out of the frame make sure you add a grd wire between the pack housing and the chassis. Wont change your issue but it's a good practice. On the brighter side, most of these kind of problems turn out to be a simple fix, a bad electronic component or two. Twenty bucks and some solder and it's fixed. Problem is, it takes weeks to find the bad component(s)! Most folks don't have the patience or time and just replace the entire higher level assembly be it a new BCU, DCCP, etc.

 

[Mark911]

Also, you should be able to download the last couple of ride/charge files and you might be able to see something from them.