Little brass thread inserts in plastic -- How to fix

Jared

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Arlington, WA
#41
I have resorted to about 30 inch pounds and using permatex gasket sealer on the bolt threads to prevent them from vibrating loose or corroding in place from moisture getting trapped on the threads...so far so good.
The front inserts on the “clamshells” bottom onto the aluminum frame tabs, so they can be tighter.
 

Jared

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Arlington, WA
#42
Picture with impact driver is removing “spun” insert by drilling through plastic ant into brass insert to put in upside down drill bit to lock into place and allow bolt to be removed.
 

Rashid510

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#43
Uhm, so the faring bolt torque is 4Nm = 35 inch lbs (Google math). There are slightly longer and shorter bolts as well. Also the silver bushing that goes into the fairing (see below) stops that insert from spinning (too late). Need a deltawing?

1571703899242.png

(Also for the rear subframe the torque limit for those screws are 2Nm = 17.7 in/lbs)
 

OneLapper

"You don't *really* need the water pump...."
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#44
The dealer had to replace the ACM immediately after I purchased my bike. They spun every single insert they could possibly spin. If it didn't come loose, they spun it till it melted the plastic and fell out.

Thankfully, Alta replaced all the damaged pieces. I installed them without loctite. Haven't had a problem since.
 

Jared

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Arlington, WA
#45
The dealer had to replace the ACM immediately after I purchased my bike. They spun every single insert they could possibly spin. If it didn't come loose, they spun it till it melted the plastic and fell out.

Thankfully, Alta replaced all the damaged pieces. I installed them without loctite. Haven't had a problem since.
I bought this EX used, and I think most of the carnage is from the previous owner working on it. It seems like there is evidence everywhere of work done on it that someone who shouldn’t work on bikes did. Had a lot of fun trying to figure out why the license plate illumination and tail-light weren’t working. They would just flick on momentarily and then stay off until the key was cycled. The previous owner had connected the purple wire (tail) to where the yellow wire (stop) goes and the yellow wire to where the purple wire goes. This also made my brake light not as bright as it should have been because it was illuminating the running/tail light filament instead of the stop/brake filament. These Altas are programmed so that if a circuit becomes open while operating or is connected to too much load (like if a short developed) that circuit is deactivated until the key is cycled. Thankfully there is some leniency in the headlight circuit, and it will stay energized at 1/3 the load of the original headlamp bulb otherwise my LED setup would require resistors to add load.
 

Rashid510

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#46

Slayer

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South Chicagoland
#47

Slayer

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South Chicagoland
#49
If my rear section is ever so damaged from a crash or the like that repair isn’t worth it, then l will adapt the subframe from another bike to fit.
I think it was sticky mud that pulled one and only one insert out. However, knowing the tail piece was flapping about did distract me enough to crash. Now, I have piece of mind, and a bungee that comes in handy too.

4094D66E-9488-43AE-BEC2-CAC8E4675F9D.jpeg
 

snydes

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#51
Here is my next attempt at something more substantial for the rear most rear fender mounting points. My original repair lasted longer than the brass inserts, but was still not durable enough to take the abuse. Back to the drawing board to try something better.

First I drilled all the way straight though the fender with a 19/64 drill at the original insert location for the back two mounting points. This is just big enough to clean out the original hole from the now missing brass insert. Next I turned a piece of steel to the size of the new hole in the plastic and drilled and tapped it for the OEM fastener (M5 x .8) and cut it to approximately 1" long. Next I took a regular 3/8 flat washer, slotted the hole a bit and bent it slightly to try and match the fender profile. I next installed the post into the fender to the correct depth (excess sticking out the top) and then did some quick light tack welds to locate it at the correct angle, which ends up being very close to 45 degrees. Once it was tacked in place I removed it from the fender, cut off the excess post and finished welding the washer solid. Grind off the top, finish it however you like and you are done. The only downside is you have an exposed end on the outside of the plastic, but it's definitely not pulling out.
272F587F-6E4B-4C94-A66A-AFA4FEF9C1F6.jpeg 662C7AE4-65F0-4C16-BA61-2192EDE1DC36.jpeg
 
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