Want to buy Factory Alta left hand rear brake kit
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C5tor
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Here’s the hose. You just need to pick up the clutch master cylinder.
The thread about the kit and what you need are here:
If you also want to retain the foot brake, look at this thread:
altaownersforum.com
Alta Motors HOSE, BRAKE, REAR, HAND OPERATED, WITH MOUNTING CLAMP 7004049-00 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Alta Motors HOSE, BRAKE, REAR, HAND OPERATED, WITH MOUNTING CLAMP 7004049-00 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
The thread about the kit and what you need are here:
If you also want to retain the foot brake, look at this thread:
DIY LHRB that retains the foot brake
I think I should re-post the DIY LHRB recipe, which is buried on Page 6 of The Alta Factory LHRB thread. Here is the recipe: 1) Brembo clutch 9mm master cylinder KTM P/N 79202030044 from the 2017 KTM SX-F 250/350 2) Clutch hose KTM P/N 60032063100 from the 2014+ KTM Adventure (must straighten...
altaownersforum.com
C5tor
Chief Comedic Instigator
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Yes, there are just two pieces. The hose and the master cylinder/lever. If you read the thread, there are different opinions about whether to get a 9mm or 10mm master cylinder. My opinion is they both work fine.
The instruction manual for the original kit are in the Resources forum.
altaownersforum.com
The instruction manual for the original kit are in the Resources forum.
Alta LHRB Installation Guide
Attached is the installation guide that was included in the Alta left hand rear brake kit. Enjoy.
altaownersforum.com
C5tor
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I don’t see that you reference any ebay part number.
C5tor
Chief Comedic Instigator
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No, that is just a brake lever. You need the whole clutch master cylinder, which includes a lever.
C5tor
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Here’s one on Amazon for the 10mm. The part number for the 9mm one is in that Alta LHRB thread I pointed you to.
Amazon.com: NEW KTM BREMBO HYDRAULIC CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER SX SX-F XC XCF XCFW 54802030144 : Automotive
Buy NEW KTM BREMBO HYDRAULIC CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER SX SX-F XC XCF XCFW 54802030144: Clutch Cables & Lines - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
C5tor
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9mm or 10mm will work. Read the thread about the pros cons of 9mm vs 10mm. I think the 10mm feels a bit better, and is a bit better matched to the front brake feel. The 9mm locks up the rear a little easier, but can feel a little less firm.
I ride both, and tend to prefer the 10mm overall. My son also likes the 10mm. All a matter of taste. They both work, and you would get used to either.
I ride both, and tend to prefer the 10mm overall. My son also likes the 10mm. All a matter of taste. They both work, and you would get used to either.
C5tor
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As I mentioned, read the two threads I referenced above to get the opinions of others as well.
reeldealev
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I can sell you my complete setup, but I would need your stock master cyl and right foot lever.
synics
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Does anyone have one of these hydraulic hose lines? While riding super hard yesterday I boiled my brake fluid and it melted part of my hose. I really need one of these if anyone has one!!!!!!!
Fwiw... while adjusting my R brake I went too far and it dragged a little, but I figured it'd be OK for one ride. Nope! Within 1/2 mile the bike slowed down to a crawl, and I had to stop.
Pulling up hard on the pedal made enough of a difference so I could ride home, but everything got so frickin' hot. I replaced the absolutely-roasted pads and it's fine now, but the rotor still has brown areas.
synics
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Yeah what I did was put too much fluid in the master cylinder right up to the top like a total idiot. I completely fried my pads and the rotor. Ordered new ones yesterday. I'm kind of worried though because now the pads don't fully retract in the drag on the disc a little bit and I don't know if I need to rebuild the caliper or not.
Hey, I've overfilled too, at both ends - I think enough slopped out that I got lucky with the drag thing. Before going to the trouble of rebuilding, I'd check the caliper guide rods for grease - I wouldn't be surprised if it's burnt to a crisp, leaving 'dead-grease glue' on the rods, As long as the caliper & piston move freely and don't leak, you might be OK. The new pads will likely be thicker, and almost always I've had to slide the caliper way apart and push the piston(s) farther into the body before the new pads would go on. After that, a couple of strong brake applications and I've always ended up with zero drag after a pad change.