Watch out for those ASI controllers. They are quite good considering the size and weight, but they (the 4000 for sure) have an issue with faulting out upon landing from jumps and in the whoops. The sudden change in motor speed creates an instantaneous current overload fault. This has been verified on two different bikes with many different riders (same motor as yours). Maxing out the proper parameters doesn't help. ASI can provide some assistance but it'll void the warrantee and doesn't completely solve the problem. It's a potentially dangerous condition as the sudden loss of power can cause a crash. I've seen the same condition in other controllers as well. I haven't tested the 8000 in similar conditions as I don't have the application for that much power, but I'm in the process of completing a full sized conversion and would like to use the 8000 if it doesn't exhibit the same tendency.
Electric RMZ
- Thread starter riverin
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Thanks for the info I was not aware of this I will be careful the first time hitting a jump. I can't test the bike anymore because of the snow so it will be in 6 month. The last time I already had a problem however when going around top speed the motor would cut power for 1 second then back to normal but it did not give any fault.
chrisflysit
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Are there any updates? I am considering using the same motor and controller. I have some experience with the BAC8000. I wired up and programmed one for my Sur-Ron. It took many hours but it's working beautifully now. Also I would love to see more pictures of the reduction shaft design.
I have a BAC8000 controller and need to program it. It is currently locked from E.R.T. (the guy I bought it from) and he will not return my calls for support. Is there an app you use to program it. Any help you can give on what you did to program it for your sur Ron would be appreciated.
I can't ride ride for the next 5 month because there is 3 feet of snow on the ground so I haven't ridden since the last video.
If ERT locked it there is no way to program it unless he unlock it.
Asi blocked the acces to the app so I can't program it anymore.
I have to 1500$ if i want the Access to the app. Very good controller with bad consumer service.
chrisflysit
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We bought the BAC8000 evaluation kit, so I have access. Programming has a steep learning curve and can be catastrophic if done wrong. I'm pulling 8000 watts from my stock Sur-Ron battery. The performance is amazing. My intent was to sell programed controllers, which I might still. But it has to be programmed for a very specific application. There is some development with the EggRider display that could help in the future. Anyway, I'm picking up a 2017 CRF250R today that is missing an engine. QS138 70H V3 (geared version) on order. More to come...
chrisflysit
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Did the motor come with a Hall sensor mating connector?
If not, do you have a source the connector or did you just remove it?
If not, do you have a source the connector or did you just remove it?
remove it.
Sothe snow has melted and I have started to test the bike a little bit. Still waiting for a track to open.I have been messing with the engine braking and I was wondering if someone could tell me how it feels on the alta. Right now I have set it to feel a little harder than a 4 stroke and only over 15 kmh. I also bought a 3d printer and printed a charging port and the primary chain cover.
I have not been on a track yet. But I have ridden around 17km of wide open acceleration for testing settings and it drained the battery to half.
That's over 30km then of good pace that's great. At enduro or Woods riding even further.. I'm racing an enduro series and UK conditions are usually tight and wet with a little open field /dry forestry in our usually short summer.. How do you think mine will fair I'm using a bac 8000 72v with the 2x 210 cell Samsung 6qs packs and 60 amp hours.. Unfortunately I don't have the knowledge I've come at this as a rider and asked someone to build a bike for me.. I'm good with mechanical but no electronics knowledge so I'm relying on my guy to give me a competetive bike.. The 08 crf chassis is a good start and with suspension revalved and sprung for enduro. I'm hoping it's a good package.. The race series I'm riding is e bike specific and 1 hr duration which I should have no problem with at 60 amp hours if I understand things correctly
I havent rode the bike enought to really know the range yet. Are you using the 2 packs together or separately? I think you will be good for an hour.
Together just one big battery
Do You think mine will have similar range to you without reading the posts again I don't recall if you have a bigger battery or not.. I'll have a look back but I'm not clued up enough to work out which will perform better anyway
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