Code 35


Mikec265

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#1
I went to check the hours on my bike today. Pressed the wrong button and a code 35 popped up. Is this a big deal, and should I do anything about it?
 

OneLapper

"You don't *really* need the water pump...."
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#2
Hey Mike

We'll need some more info, but it seems that a C35 required a new battery pack. This might not be needed in this case, though, so I don't want to alarm you.

Do you have Multitool and a cable to get the codes off the bike?
Does the bike work?
Where are you, near Lake Erie in PA?
 

datadog

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#6
Module imbalance is likely, wire bond fault. If you updated the firmware, that hidden Code 35 would very possibly turn into a Code 36 that would persist on the display. As long as it runs fine, I would leave it alone.
 

OneLapper

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#7
@Mikec265 , what's the year and model?

@datadog , thanks for the reply. If I recall the C35 turned out to be a wire bond issue, but I don't think the thread got updated to reflect that.

I wasn't aware that the left button had a code related function
 

OneLapper

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#13
Well, you want to get to the bottom of it one way or another.

I suspect if and when you have the FW updated you'll immediately get a Code 36. That will confirm a wire bond failure on one or more cells.

It's possible that there are good spare modules that can be purchased. Swapping out the bad module for a good one is doable.
 

Mark911

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Corona Ca
#14
If you ship the pack to me and I'll take a look. I've fixed several code 36 packs already. The only issue is that with these bad wire welds packs you never know when another failure will occur and there's no known preventative fix (yet). A non-destructive wire bond "pull test" would probably find any latent issues but it'll take some practice on someone's throw-away module to develop the procedure. However, as you've experienced the failure isn't catastrophic so you'll typically get plenty of the same indications if it happens again. If it's the top or bottom module it's pretty easy to find with multitool and repair, although negative cell side fuse bond failures are a bit trickier.
 

OneLapper

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#15
That's a great offer, @Mark911 !

Looks like Mikec265 is located in Northwest PA, so the shipping won't be the cheapest, but I'm sure Mark911 can get you going again.

Removing the battery is pretty straight forward, plenty of info on the forum and even Youtube on how to do that.

Keep us posted!
 

Mikec265

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#16
Considering the cost of the bike, and then the cost of my track... I'm not to worried about shipping costs. I'm guessing about $120 to ship one way like the RM250 engine I sold to Washington State. 6 more days of the dozer rental left for building the track. After buying a tractor, attachments, and dozer rentals I've got at least $35,000 into the track. If it wasn't for Alta and the lack of noise I wouldn't have a track. I'm hoping I can just run it until winter gets closer. Thank you for the offer Mark. I'll be getting a hold of you at some point. At least if it dies I've still got a 125, 250, and 500 in the garage.
 

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