Broken display - solution?

Bionicman

owner of deleted file
Likes
331
Location
WA
I've been working on a display guard to mount behind the steering wheel, clamped to the handlebar. All of these look pretty nice, but I just can't leave the display unprotected. So here is my design in process. Individual pieces are not fully designed (missing holes in the faceplate, not mounting bolts yet), but this is for the most part what I plan on making. 1/8" neoprene rubber spacers are intended to isolate the display from contacting the aluminum housing. I just noticed a typo in my exploded view, the gasket isolating the polycarbonate from the display is 1/16" thick, not 1/6". View attachment 1640
I'd like to purchase one if you have extras made. PM me ;)
 
Likes
8
Location
SSF
Not sure which "display" thread to post in, but I just confirmed with an ex-Alta software engineer that the bike should be able to run without the display, as long as you plug in a CAN termination resistor. Basically just a 120 ohm resistor across the CAN_high and CAN_low leads. Haven't confirmed on my own bike yet, but those with a broken display might give it a shot? Apologies if this info has already been posted.
 
Likes
8
Location
SSF
Not sure which "display" thread to post in, but I just confirmed with an ex-Alta software engineer that the bike should be able to run without the display, as long as you plug in a CAN termination resistor. Basically just a 120 ohm resistor across the CAN_high and CAN_low leads. Haven't confirmed on my own bike yet, but those with a broken display might give it a shot? Apologies if this info has already been posted.
Unfortunately got some conflicting info today that the above is FALSE and the display does indeed serve some function in communicating to the rest of the bike. In other words, a simple CAN termination resistor jumper won't do the trick. Once again, haven't verified any of this info... just passing along what I hear.
 

datadog

Well-known member
Likes
288
Location
USA
Unfortunately got some conflicting info today that the above is FALSE and the display does indeed serve some function in communicating to the rest of the bike. In other words, a simple CAN termination resistor jumper won't do the trick. Once again, haven't verified any of this info... just passing along what I hear.
See post #40 in this thread.
 
I want 2 for MX/MXR and 2 for EX/EXR . Prices ?
It has taken longer than I would have liked but progress is being made. The MX (behind the steering stem) is milled and the EX (in front like a speedo) will be tomorrow or the next day. I will test fit each type then send them to the anodizer for the black hard coat. View attachment 1839
Want 4 of these! We have here 1MX 1 MXR 1 EX 1 EXR.. Prices ?
 
Likes
8
Location
SSF
Just got around to installing the Alta Vault today. Shipped quickly from the above link and looks to be a well-made unit! Made a couple changes during the install process that I thought I'd share.

The back of the display has a gore vent which sits proud of the display housing surface:
zaIrXQrh.jpg

When the raw aluminum back plate of the display vault is installed, it wants to sit flush against the housing surface, but the proud gore vent causes some interference. So, I relocated the four felt pads that were originally inside the Alta Vault and placed them on the back plate as below. You can see the lower left one is offset to clear the gore vent.
Rr8CJm9h.jpg

Also, since the front face of the display is now in direct contact with the inside of the Alta Vault, I placed a couple strips of helicopter tape (thick clear vinyl tape) on the front of the display to protect against abrasion:
Gs4cew5h.jpg

Now, the backing plate of the Alta Vault leaves enough of a gap for the gore vent:
gIwdz3Ch.jpg


And as installed on the bike:
6FPiIRFh.jpg


Need to order a bar pad now. Will likely require some trimming. Am also considering replacing the four felt pads with a similar type of neoprene foam that is found around the perimeter of the Alta Vault. I'm a bit worried that the concentrated points of pressure from the four felt pads might cause some long term damage. Probably nothing to worry about, but better safe than sorry.

All in all, thanks for putting this product out there @Trialsman !!!
 
Likes
7
Location
Germany
After I damaged my display, I start to repair it.
You have to loosen all the screws on the backside. Then you have to pull the display and the electric board out. You need a bit of force because there is
a kind of glue on the backside of the board. Problem is the LCD is mounted at a board for the backlight and this one is mounted at the electric board.
Then I cutted all the pins from the LCD. I used a soldering iron to head the pins up and then pushed it out with a needle. It took a while.
After this you have to remove the rest of the solder.
The part number of the LCD is: EA DOGM240W-6
And the EA LED94x40-GR (other colours will also work).
The soldering of the board is simple.

So I don´t know if someone posted it before, but if not,
I hope it can help someone.
IMG_0308.JPG IMG_0312.JPG
 

Trialsman

Well-known member
Likes
357
Location
Pittsburgh
Thanks philmor. Glad to see someone having success repairing one.

On another note I cut the one ear that overlaps the Gore vent on any newer version AltaVault MX. If you have an earlier version just remove the one that covers the vent with a band saw.
 

Rashid510

Well-known member
Forum's Sponsor
Likes
508
Location
South San Francisco, CA
Thanks philmor. Glad to see someone having success repairing one.

On another note I cut the one ear that overlaps the Gore vent on any newer version AltaVault MX. If you have an earlier version just remove the one that covers the vent with a band saw.
Way to go! That was going to be the next option I was tackling (I have two/three boards that need crystals to be replaced) Digikey sells these parts pretty cheaply (20ish bucks)
 

Similar threads