Battery Pack Disassembled (Frustrating Weekend)


TonyWilliams

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1) The Alta's pack arranges the cells as densely as possible. This is both good and bad. Good from a capacity per volume perspective but not so good thermally.

Pretty standard automotive arrangement for cylindrical cells, made popular by Tesla. Even the tiny wire “fuseable” link seems to be a Tesla automotive concept.

2) The Alta's "passive" thermal control system does little during an initial (from ambient) high amperage discharge cycle, less than 15 minutes to thermal limiting (an A level rider discharge profile, for example).

I think calling this a cooling system is being generous.

3) The Alta's "passive" thermal control system can help delay the onset of thermal limiting during less aggressive discharge drive cycles AND can help reduce cell temperature between charge/discharge cycles, but not by much. Once the cells are "heat soaked" it's very difficult to pull the energy back out, even with fans, etc.

Very dense cells will absolutley stay hot once heat soaked, which is why I’m not confident that a non-liquid cooling medium will perform the needed task of somewhat quickly reducing the cell temperature in potentionally high ambient temperatures.

4) Any "wet" thermal solution would need to flow axially, as the physical proximity between cells restricts efficient and effective radial flow. The nature of the packaging design pretty much makes an axial flow solution virtually impossible.

I’m not sure that I’m following, but then I haven’t pulled mine apart yet (I actually haven’t received the bike yet).

5) An externally cooled "cold plate" mounted between the individual module and the radiator housing does well up a point, but the delta temp between keeping the cells internal temperatures at or below my cutoff point and the ambient temperature is narrow. To work efficiently at higher ambient temperatures would mean adding very large external radiators and the weight hit and complexity just wouldn't be worth it.

Yes, I concur that the Temperture delta between ambient (40-45C possible) and cell limit of 50-52C is just not something that could be passively done, nor is a air to liquid heat exchanger (radiator) going to work in a small and lightweight size.

I’m thinking that a good cold soaking at 15-20C between motos with a little dry ice (frozen CO2) on a cooling plate should get through a moto. How to incorporate that might require a new battery case. Maybe the dry ice fits inside the heat sink?

Given 1-6, I've concluded that the best strategy (for me) would be the following;
1) Incorporate a cell with a higher discharge rating than the Sony and take the hit in capacity.

You could just add more cells (and weight) to compensate?

2) Throw away the Alta closed composite cell housing in favor of an "exposed cylindrical surface" support structure and design in a source of "forced air" cooling.

That would be interesting.

3) Design an alternative hot gas "venting" route.

I would be afraid of moisture, dirt, FOD, etc, from getting in the battery case.

4) Incorporate two "cold plates" for use between motos only to reduce core cell temperatures to approx. 10C below ambient (to about 50F). Along with a modest cell upgrade and some forced air cooling, this temperature should provide enough headroom to prevent thermal limiting even under extreme conditions. The rate of heat removal is as important as heat generation so further analysis is required in this area.

You really don’t want the cells at 10C to start a race... 15-20C minimum, I think. Another strategy is to let the cells get hotter than 50-52C (or whatever threshold that ALTA has programmed for power limiting. They aren’t likely to blow up at 55C, for instance, but you’ll definitely start affecting long life with the hotter you get. I’d probably make an absolute 58-60C shutdown.
 

TonyWilliams

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I grabbed this from the Alta Owners Manual. Apparently, 600C temperature is approved for storage! The melting point of aluminum is 1,221°F / 660.3°C

Obviously, they meant 60C, however, that is still WAY TOO HOT to store these cells.

In addition, apparently they limited the cells to 45C for operation (presumably when the power limiting happens). Once we get the CAN messages cracked, we will be able to confirm that.

Anyhoo, 45C is safe in the extreme, likely to prevent widespread warranty claims of degradation. For a pro level race, these cells can and should be hotter. No, that’s not what makes them last longer ;-)

4C5F8388-444F-47E0-9EAF-700432E2D5FE.jpeg
 

TonyWilliams

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This is mostly a repost form another thread, but there might be a discrepancy in the cell count for the Sony cells. I’m only calculating 5.44kWh. There must be more cells in there than 504.

If the “R” bikes have about 51.7 pounds / 23.5kg of cells:

46.6 grams * 504 cells = 23.5kg

(21S * 6P) * 4 modules = 504 cells

That’s only 5.4kWh:

504 * (3000mah * 3.6V) = 5.44kWh

Brand: Sony Energy
Model: US18650VTC6
Size: 18650
Nominal Capacity: 3000mAh
[ my edit - typical cutoff 2.5V ]
Nominal Voltage: 3.6V
Maximum Voltage: 4.2V
Discharge: 15A Maximum Continuous, 30A Maximum Continuous with 80 deg C cutoff
Style: Flat Top
Protected: NO, UNPROTECTED
Approximate Dimensions: 18.5mm x 65.2mm
Approximate Weight: 46.6g

54kW (72hp) = 15A * 3.6V
108kW (144hp) = 30A * 3.6V (80C / 176F temperature limit)

Let’s just say that power isn’t a factor here. These cells are simply incredible.

I’d love to see the voltage sag at 30A.

But, capacity is lower than 5.8kWh with 504 cells.
 

Greg931

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Hey Mark,

I change sprockets depending on my races, and notice it affects battery life. I’m no EE, but my reasoning is that with a larger front sprocket, you get less back emf and don’t need as much voltage? Could this reduce thermal heating?
 

TCMB371

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How are you determining the range difference? Changing gearing will throw off the odometer as its calibrated for the stock gearing, so if you're using odometer it will be off.
 

Cyrus David

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Temp sensor bypassing or reprogramming the BCU to be less conservative is the answer in my opinion for those of you going limp mode during racing from pack temp.
I’ll look again at the pack (have one coming back apart next week likely) to see how the temp thermistors are set up (if nobody has explored this yet).
 

querlenker

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Germany
Hey Mark,

I change sprockets depending on my races, and notice it affects battery life. I’m no EE, but my reasoning is that with a larger front sprocket, you get less back emf and don’t need as much voltage? Could this reduce thermal heating?

I can tell from my experience that you are right. A optimised gearing will increase range and you are not slower (laptime). Both ideas are true, the amount depends on many variables.
 

SRL

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Seems like it would be relatively easy to make copies of the plastic battery carrier for a pack and use the existing battery top plate and daughterboards to remake these pack modules. Ive got a 5 axis VMC here and with that and a billet of heat resistant plastic youd probably be good to go. Anyone seen the bare plastic battery carrier? It looks like it might be a stack of several parts but maybe those are parting lines for injection moulding. Cad drawings of the module would be helpful but it could be reverse engineered with a CMM at any tricky point (we have CMMs here as well).

From that point, you could make a pack up and wirebond new wires to the top plate. Anyone have the bare plastic carrier or photos of it?
 

OneLapper

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We're stuck on the wire bonding at the moment. We're looking for a DIY at home way of doing the bonding but haven't quite gotten there yet....
 

C5tor

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We're stuck on the wire bonding at the moment. We're looking for a DIY at home way of doing the bonding but haven't quite gotten there yet....

Anyone in the group have any experience with wirebonding? I wouldn’t be averse to pitching in a few bucks to a pool to buy a used wirebonder if it could be used to repair member batteries in the long run. Kind of a common-good project. Not sure if this has been proposed in another thread before. Also not even the remotest idea what an appropriate wirebonder would cost, since I have never used one.
 

OneLapper

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Well, I think we have the combined funds to purchase a wire bonder. As I see it, the issue is whether we get a hand held system that can be easily sent to the battery, or do we spend more and get a system that will do a better job but cannot be shipped or moved easily, necessitating the battery to go the bonder (and therefore one member that does the bonding and then needs to be compensated for his/her time). We have been kicking ideas around for months now, and that was driven by the Code 36 sufferers and our need to get those packs repaired.

Now that most, if not all, of the Code 36 packs have be rebuilt with good modules, we don't have the immediate need for wire bonding. We DO have several modules that have bad wire bonds, but fixing them and building a less than perfect battery pack hasn't been on anyone's priority list yet.

Further more, we're hopeful that someone like @AltaWest might eventually build a better battery pack, or packs that are specific to the bikes intended use; lighter pack for MX, higher capacity pack for the enduro guys, saddle mount packs for adventurers, Git-R-Home packs, etc. We have some hurtles to get over before that's possible, but we'll get there.
 

Mark911

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Corona Ca
I think you could add additional "home made" packs in parallel with the Alta pack with little problem (saddle mount type). They'd need to match total voltage (at least 84 cells in series), be of the same or very similar type, have their own BMS system (commercially available) and would need to be electrically disconnected from the bus during charging but I think it'd work.

Off the top of my head I'd say you could even add (or remove) more individual cells directly to each P-group without issue as well. I don't think the Alta BMS can tell whether it has 5, 6 (stock) or 12 cells in each p-group (other then the longer/short time to charge that extra/less capacity). In fact, any extra p-group cells would also help share the current load reducing the per cell discharge rates and in doing so reduce heat generation and potential thermal limiting. Voltage droop during heavy loads would be reduced as well resulting in better performance. Again, you'd need to add/remove cells in series sections of 84 to match voltage and be of the same cell type.

Of course you'd also need to figure out a way to hardwire them into each module, physically mount them (wrapped like a belt cartridge around the pack?), and they'd probably operate at different temperatures and be at different aging stages causing some imbalance issues but I think the Alta's BMS would keep them relatively balanced if proper care was taken. Anyway, food for thought.
 

Motophyllic

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I have an empty battery box on my newest Alta I just purchased. I’d really like to fill it with batteries and ride this bike.
 

Mark911

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How much extra capacity do you want (in approx. 1000wh increments)? Note, the stock battery is about 5800wh. That will dictate the total number of cells you'll need to buy (Sony or Panasonic depending on R vs MX). Then look for a good BMS (more like multiple boards) that will support 84 balancing circuits min (for exp, 5 boards each with 20 circuits each). You won't be wiring the BMS to limit total current, just for charging, so don't worry about that spec but you'd want something that'll charge at least at 1C from a 120v source charger that's compatible with the BMS boards. Build your p-groups (not needed if adding just one 1000wh series group) making sure the cell voltages are all very close (there's tons of YouTube videos one this). Now build your series group, again, lots of videos on this; WARNING, HIGH VOLTAGE AT THIS STAGE AND BEYOND. Wire up the BMS system including any TCs and secure them into your bike mounted battery box with proper "quick connect/disconnect" external connector for the HV leads and charger port and weather proof. Remove your inverter and run two properly sized cables from the power capacitor to the battery box and terminate with the corresponding "quick connect" for + and -. Before connecting make sure the main pack and aux pack are of the same voltage (you'll probably need to hardwire in a DVM at the inverter capacitor to measure main pack voltage as this must be done EVERY TIME to prevent discharging one pack into the other). If the voltages are the same engage the aux battery and ride. If you stop you'll need to disconnect the aux pack to prevent it from discharging and for safety. There's probably a HV relay with logic that could be wired to the key and run switches to make connecting and disconnecting automatic. I know RVs use these as they have multiple banks of batteries and supply from many different sources. A bit of research here.

Of course this is very simplified and there's aux pack design and construction methods you'd need to follow to make it safe but I don't see it as being too difficult, particularly with the room available in a saddle box package. It obviously won't be a efficient as the Alta system and will probably draw down faster eventually creating balance and cross charging issues that would need to be addressed, but heck, someone's got to be the first!
 

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