Any way to eliminate the key?


Silent But Dirty

Alta North
Likes
391
Location
Canada
I do
You do not need to touch the switch. I always keep mine on.

Perhaps you could cut and connect the two switch wires together and re-wire the key wires to the switch.
I think both the key switch and the run switch are required to be there for the charging to work.
 

Bionicman

E powertrain proponent
Likes
385
Location
WA
I’d be careful modifying the switch. While it’s just a loop 2wires always in the connected state it may cause premature battery drain & provide power to circuits constantly-causing potential heat related damage to electronics
 

datadog

Well-known member
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286
Location
USA
You do not need to touch the switch. I always keep mine on.

Here's the only problem with that. You can take a short ride, get off the bike, and easily leave it in drive. I've seen a non moving EXR turn it to an EXR on it's side in the parking lot when an onlooker walks up and twists the throttle while the bike sits in drive. Just FYI. I always turn that switch off when I dismount the bike. You could, or course, also turn off the key switch.
 

Philip

Administrator
Staff member
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4,051
Location
Lake Havasu City, AZ
You could, or course, also turn off the key switch.
Yes, that's exactly what I do. I do not think having to mess with two switches makes things any safer.

I still do not understand the purpose of the run switch. Does it allow to keep the head/tail light on when the key is off? I wouldn't know because my MXR does not have those. If the accessories turn off anyway, then the run switch is for redundancy only.
 

leeo45

Geezer in denial
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576
Location
Lake Hartwell, SC
Yes, that's exactly what I do. I do not think having to mess with two switches makes things any safer.

I still do not understand the purpose of the run switch. Does it allow to keep the head/tail light on when the key is off? I wouldn't know because my MXR does not have those. If the accessories turn off anyway, then the run switch is for redundancy only.

I don't have insight into any legal requirements or all of the design purposes from ALTA, but I use it just like the kill switch on an ICE dualsport bike. The thumb switch is infinitely more convenient than the key when I want to turn off the bike for a very brief period of time; and would even be accessible if the throttle got stuck. On a dualsport bike I think you want the key for security and the run/stopl switch for convenience and safety.

For example, when negotiating unrideable obstacles offroad I turn the bike off to avoid the type of incident mentioned by datadog. I didn't do this my first weekend after getting the bike and as we were dragging the bikes under a downed tree someone grabbed the throttle by accident and the bike took off spinning in circles on the ground. They would have heard that an ICE bike was running, but on the ALTA is is only the small green silent flasher. Fortunately, nobody was in the way and the only damage was a folded up license plate. I have remembered to use the stop switch ever since in such circumstances.

BTW, my KTM enduro bike (offroad only) doesn't have a key, only the handlebar run/stop switch.
 

snydes

Moderator
Staff member
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2,796
Location
Pennsylvania
As usual I'm the oddity in that I like the keyed switch. Seems silly for an MX bike I know, but with a bike that would be so easy to hop on and silently ride away I like that extra measure of security. If some prick wants to rip it off at least they have to try and push it at least a little, and have fun with that, we all know how freely these things push.
 

raysted

Member
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14
Location
Daytona Beach
At WMR down here in FL, saw a push button switch installed on a MXR that was in the shop, shop manager told me easy to do for the bike I was buying. Havent researched yet, but sure its rather simple.
 

strider

Well-known member
Likes
172
Location
NE Oklahoma
Here's the only problem with that. You can take a short ride, get off the bike, and easily leave it in drive. I've seen a non moving EXR turn it to an EXR on it's side in the parking lot when an onlooker walks up and twists the throttle while the bike sits in drive. Just FYI. I always turn that switch off when I dismount the bike. You could, or course, also turn off the key switch.
This confused me as on my bike once you drop the kickstand it kills the throttle. Then I realized you were talking about MX(R)'s :)
 

evh1

Well-known member
Likes
190
Location
Montgomery, AL
While we're talking switches, is there a simple solution on the EXR's for a headlight on/off switch. Off when off roading, especially when used scouting for deer, heh heh! Is the head light LED and the drain not worth bothering about battery-wise ?
 

revoltlution

Keep yer cool, don't get hurt, and never give up!
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394
Location
St Johns, Portland, OR 97203
While we're talking switches, is there a simple solution on the EXR's for a headlight on/off switch. Off when off roading, especially when used scouting for deer, heh heh! Is the head light LED and the drain not worth bothering about battery-wise ?
you could drop a simple little switch (or connector) inline with either the low or high beam (up by the bulb). This would allow you to use your thumb switch to toggle between one of your beams and a disconnected beam. On/Off... just reconnect the disconnected beam and your back to normal.
 

bluefxstc

Well-known member
Likes
886
Location
Boise, ID, United States
While we're talking switches, is there a simple solution on the EXR's for a headlight on/off switch. Off when off roading, especially when used scouting for deer, heh heh! Is the head light LED and the drain not worth bothering about battery-wise ?
Not worth worrying about. Grand total, headlight and tail light you are something less than 50 watts, probably closer to 35-40W, but will go big to be conservative. For a three hour ride that is 150Wh out of 5800Wh or about 2.5%. If you go 40 miles in the three hours you are talking 1.03 miles of range. Now if the 1.03 miles is the difference between making it back to camp, or not, it is significant, but I wouldn't worry too much about it.
 

evh1

Well-known member
Likes
190
Location
Montgomery, AL
you could drop a simple little switch (or connector) inline with either the low or high beam (up by the bulb). This would allow you to use your thumb switch to toggle between one of your beams and a disconnected beam. On/Off... just reconnect the disconnected beam and your back to normal.
Ok. Nice easy fix. Thank you
 

leeo45

Geezer in denial
Likes
576
Location
Lake Hartwell, SC
Not worth worrying about. Grand total, headlight and tail light you are something less than 50 amps, probably closer to 35-40A, but will go big to be conservative. For a three hour ride that is 150Ah out of 5800Ah or about 2.5%. If you go 40 miles in the three hours you are talking 1.03 miles of range. Now if the 1.03 miles is the difference between making it back to camp, or not, it is significant, but I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I agree that the headlight is normally not a concern for affecting range, but I think there is something off in the example. The halogen headlight plus incandescent tailight are at most about 70 watts total. At 13 volts this is about 5-1/2 amps not 50. If you carry this value though the Amp*Hour calculation against battery capacity it shows that it is even less of an issue.
 

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