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Does anyone know how to fix these connectors, 1 of mine has lost it’s rebound, for it to hold in the socket I have had to wrap it in self bonding electrical tape.

The facebook groups are the best place to look, I have seen similar issues on there, stark support have been good with diagnosis.

I got 166kph out of mine running 14/40 gearing which was too high, i'll get a 44t rear and try again.

I do struggle to believe that bike is running the production battery with that range, I ride similar terrain and can't get that range out of mine.

Has anyone had this fault? I have just replaced the motor, all wiring is fine, the coolant has been replaced, there is a noise coming from the pump but I can’t tell if it is pumping. Edit: Bleed the cooling system as per a pdf on the support section of the stark website, fault has cleared, bike...

Locked in motion, failed temp sensor according to stark. I am skeptical though, I was flat out, the motor was loaded up. However, these motors must have some thermal protection, a $50 rainwater pump does….when the new motor is fitted I will ride it the same way.

I had 2 pinholes in the front tube and 1 in the rear after the first ride. If I hadn't put tyre sealant in the tubes before the first ride it would have been a quick ride.

Are you sure the breather is meant to be blocked off when installed, rather than have the bolt removed and the old breather hose fitted? I have a new motor on the way for mine, mine locked up. I also had a battery fault straight out of the crate that I have already changed. I have undone every...

Yeah it is necessary, I am surprised Stark don't have a manual on this because it is a very common thing to do. Especially with the left hand thread, someone will get too keen and strip or break it eventually.

All bikes have a crankcase breather, It has caused issues with many bikes but it's necessary to save your engine seals from blowing out under pressure. I heard some starks had a very short breather that made it easy to get water in. Mine has a long hose that runs up to the top of the subframe...

They were all wet, now they are packed. The bolts and threads were all very dry, some were tight. They are all greased now too.

Update: I drowned the bolt (literally) in wd40 overnight and the right hand side came out fairly easily, the left hand side is actually a sleeve that the bolt screws into from the right, it has to be undone opposite as it is a left hand thread. Bearing is greased now and it is back together.

Has anyone removed the rear linkage bolt that runs through the swingarm? I removed both the end caps, then tried to undo the nut by holding both ends of the bolt with 17mm sockets on extensions, but the resistance to undo it was extremely tight so I left it in. It is the only bearing I haven’t...

That would be fine, I have seen 125's win world enduro titles outright, and MXDN motos against 250's. It's not uncommon to see fastest lap times by 250's over 450's at MX events.

They said they are going to have it collected.

I had to change the battery on mine yesterday due to a fault from new, following the stark instructional video is perfect for removing the old battery, however I had problems installing the new battery following starks video, as have other people I have seen on facebook groups. The battery gets...

I am looking forward to this as well, I have found 40-45hp good in the woods. It is possible to make the 80hp setting usable though with "power curve/flywheel" adjustments, this would be of great benefit for flat track racing, it's too easy to lose traction as it is at 80hp.

Other known issues: The standard tubes are usless, change the straight away. The oil drain bolt is a t27 head, the supplied t25 will strip the head and require drilling or vice grips to remove it. Buy a t27 torx bit before you undo it.

What was the issue?

Good info thanks. I have just put 14/40 on it, planning on taking it to the beach next week